South Luangwa Valley

Explore one of Africa's most exciting wildlife places: South Luangwa National Park - By Peter Geraerdts

"If a holiday should alleviate stress and provide adventure at the same time, then...'

...the South Luangwa National Park is the place to be for the real adventurer! At over 9000 KMS², it is one of Africa's most pristine places. It features a high game density in a wide variety of habitats, enormous spaces and a rarity of wildlife often unseen in other parks. Walking safaris were pioneered in South Luangwa National Park and for many guests provide the ultimate safari experience. At a relaxed pace one can truly appreciate the extraordinary beauty of this area and feel the thrill of viewing big game on foot.

The Park is also home to some of Africa's rarer species, such as Cookson's wildebeest, Thornicroft's giraffe and the puku, a large floodplain antelope, as well as healthy populations of leopard and wild dog. Elephants can be found here in large herds, and South Luangwa has the largest hippo population in Africa.

The park's real strength is its birdlife. The varied terrain of river, lagoons, open savanna and mopane woodland provides a variety of habitats. More than 460 species (about as many as in the UK) have been recorded in the park.

Track &Trail River camp is situated along the river just 5 minutes drive from the main gate of the National Park. You will be able to watch all sorts of game from the balcony of the chalets, the elevated deck of the swimming pool or even during diner from a chair at the lodge-site itself. Most animals are water dependent and during the dry season, from May to November, is when wildlife begins to congregate at the dwindling water sources, offering good viewing opportunities.

The dilemma
The National Park is separated from the GMA (Game Management Area) by the Luangwa River. There are no fences to keep animals in the protected area, and in the dry season most wildlife will be able to cross the river easily.

The GMA is a land buffer shared by both humans and wildlife. Most game lodges and Zambian rural communities operate, live and survive in this area in the middle of the wilderness. Wildlife and land is sacred to all whose lives are bound so tightly to it. Tourism is growing and attracting foreign currency which is good for the economy. The local community is growing because people want to benefit from economic growth.

The tourist sector can provide an income for a lot of African families but certainly not for all of them, resulting in poverty and hunger for many. For those who live in poverty, bagging (illegal fishing and poaching) has become a way of life. Although subsistence poaching is less of a threat to the Valley's wildlife than the commercial variety, the indiscriminating snares used often kill animals that are often of no use to the poacher.

The endangered wild dog is especially vulnerable in this area and so a research project has been set up in the area to monitor the populations of wild dogs.

Almost all lodges in the area contribute to conservation of the South Luangwa. By donating money directly to the South Luangwa Conservation Society or just by promoting the area and their lodges in the mutual benefit. The more people know about the Valley, the more tourists will come and the more eyes are out there looking for game while the poachers do the same but with different intentions.

Why the South Luangwa?
Africa has become an increasingly popular holiday destination lately. 15 years ago Kenya had a clear lead in the international safari market. I have visited a lot of wildlife areas in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia, Kenya and Tanzania, and every wildlife area has its unique, but different, game and scenery, but the memories, smells sounds and sights of these African destinations hold you forever. It is impossible to say that one place is better than the other place. It all depends on personal interest and how lucky one is during game drives and walks. I have been very lucky with sightings in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe.

One of the reasons why I prefer South Luangwa and not Kruger or Serengeti is simply the number of visitors. Although not of dissimilar size, South Luangwa will have a few thousand tourists a year whereas the Serengeti and Kruger respectively will get a few hundred thousand and over a million visitors a year.

Safari guides in South Luangwa are trained according to very high standards, safari lodges and camps generally know the hospitality industry and because of the competition in the safari industry standards are high.

South Luangwa is the cradle of walking safaris. This unique way of exploring the bush is not allowed in all safari countries. Just imagine waking up at 5:30 am on the riverbank of the South Luangwa River, gathering around the still smouldering camp fire preparing yourself for the ultimate bush experience - a walking safari with skilled guide and armed scout to track down and see South Luangwa's Big Four: Elephant, Buffalo, Lion and Leopard.

Most safaris' still use open top 4 x 4 vehicles which are perfect for taking photos at relatively short distance. But the bush is completely different once you are walking in it. The sounds, smell and adrenaline make it a complete different experience...standing face to face with a group of buffalo's, finding fresh footprints of a lion or being watched by a group of elephants are all just those moments that will live with you for ever.

The guide will explain to you about bush sounds and alarm calls of animals which can tell what other animals are in the neighbourhood and you will get a much greater sense of the environment than when cruising in a vehicle.

Zambia will remain a relatively expensive safari destination although there are plenty of possibilities that make it rather affordable, of course at the expense of luxury.